Probably more than you care to read about the Podunk Guard Station

(This is part 2 in my 2008 vacation blog.  You can read part 1, about the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, here.)

Dirt roads.  You never know what you’re getting into when you see a dirt road marked on a map.  They can be a rutted trail where even a 4WD only lurches along at barely 10 mph, or a wide, raised, recently-graded throughway where you can sail along at 40 mph or faster.  Until you travel ’em, it’s just a tossup which one you’ll get.

So, when I knew we’d have to travel 16 miles down a dirt road in order to get to our cabin in southwestern Utah, adjacent to Bryce Canyon National Park, I was a little nervous.  Not so much because I’m scared of dirt roads;  on the contrary;  I love ’em, even the bumpy ones.  But, as this cabin was the access road for our excursions into Bryce Canyon, I didn’t want it to take us an hour to traverse it each time, in and out.  But, when we turned south off of Utah 12 onto South Fork Road/Forest Road #087, my hopes increased.  Indeed, it’s a very smooth road throughout the length of it that we travelled.

I found out, while we were there, that it’s an “official” Scenic Backway, which is why (I guess) it’s so nicely maintained.

It’s also an exceptionally beautiful road to travel.  On the northern end of it, it’s a little dry, since the East Fork of the Sevier River is dammed to make the Tropic Reservoir, but it’s still forested with pines, with glimpses of Utah red rock on the hills bordering the road. 

As you continue south, the elevation rises just a bit, and the terrain changes quite dramatically to lush meadows divided by a wandering creek, forested all around, with hills on each side.  Each mile we travelled south, my heart just continued to rise in my chest.  It was better than I’d hoped for.  But, then… I’m from the desert, and all you have to do is fill a landscape with a few green hills and a meandering stream, and I’m highly contented.  I realize, though, not everyone favors such views.  In fact, if you live somewhere green, and you’re blase about pastoral valley scenes, you may just want to stop reading right now.

It became a bit misty as we drove, however, that just intensified the greens.  The road travelled by a mostly-dry creekbed for seven or eight miles.  Then, we reached Tropic Reservoir, whose dam was the reason for the creek having no water in it.  Tropic Reservoir was bigger and more lovely than I’d imagined.  Once we passed it, there was water in the creek.  (I’m still not sure if it was the East Fork of the Sevier River, or East Fork Creek.)  All along East Fork Road, we passed (and were passed by) numerous trucks, RVs and ATVs, and passed a good number of camps along the way.  (And quite a few flyfishermen in waders, standing in the creek.)  It didn’t feel crowded — just fairly well-used.  I’m not an RV’er nor an ATV’er, but I could see how appealing it might be to gather the wagons with family and friends and camp out in such a valley for a weekend or longer.

Finally, our destination, Podunk Guard Station, came into view:

And, here’s the little drive up to the cabin:

The creek is rather tucked away in the brush, but, obviously, the boys were drawn to it immediately.  That’s Grant and Wes down by the creek, with Ethan coming down the road.

It wasn’t very wide nor deep, but during our four nights there, Martin and the boys (and even Audrey, a bit) spent a LOT of time fishing.  Ultimately, they only caught four keepers — Brook Trout, all — but they caught an additional 15 or 20 little guys that they threw back.  Both Ethan and Grant had caught fish on previous trips, but this was Wesley’s first time catching any on his own.  He caught one, assisted by Martin, then later, caught one entirely by himself.  Of the 250+ pics we took this trip, not ONE did we get of the boys with their fish.  Oh, well.

Here’s the creek, which flowed through the front “yard” of the cabin:

The cabin didn’t really seem all that small.  It had a large-ish living area that contained the kitchen and futon/couch.  There was a table with four chairs, and a fold-down table/pantry/thingie to provide more table space, and one additional chair.  We pulled up a camp chair to seat everyone for meals.

It also had a bedroom with two sets of bunks, where the boys slept.

The cabin is reservable, and rents for $30 a night (plus a one-time booking fee of $9).  It was built in the 1920s, and had a bit of updating done recently:  new panelling throughout, and nice, new, crank windows.  One bummer is that the wood stove was completely non-functional.  It’s my guess that it is too heavy or wide to take out of the cabin, so they just leave it in there, filling up space in the corner of the kitchen.  I stored my cookpans in it, and used the top to put our ice chest upon.  It also had a sink — with a spigot, but no running water — and a stove, powered by propane.  One internal propane light in the kitchen, as well.  No electricity.  I can do without electricity, but water would have been nice.  It’s my guess that the water used to be piped from the creek, but it’s now unsafe to use because of the cows which roam around the property.  So, we had to make the eight-mile daily trip to a spring by Tropic Reservoir to fill up our five gallons or so that we used daily.  My only serious problem with the cabin, though, was that the pilot lights on the stove wouldn’t stay lit — two on the cooktop, and one in the oven.  That meant that we had to go outside and turn off the propane after each time we used the stove (then go through the hassle of re-lighting all the pilot lights for the next meal), or else propane would seep into the cabin.  And, of course, we turned it off every time we left the cabin, and at night… but the bummer about that was that we couldn’t use the propane-powered kitchen light, then, either.  Good thing we brought two Coleman lanterns.

No running water means no showers, of course.  We’ve discovered that while showers are nice in the woods, we’re not dependent upon them.  However, if we would have stayed a day or two longer, we would have taken advantage of the pay showers at both Bryce Canyon and nearby Red Canyon campground.

One exceptionally nice feature of staying in a place so small, and elevated on a hill, was that while I was indoors doing dishes, or preparing a meal, I could look out of own window and see “the boys” all fishing down at the creek, and look out the opposite window at Audrey, who liked to play on the little hill behind the cabin, picking wildflowers and displacing rocks.

The window on the left was over the sink, looking down towards the creek.  On the far left of the pic is the permanent outhouse.  Outhouses are not my fave, but if they’re necessary, at least it’s nice when they’re well-maintained, as this one was.  (Oh, and the quaint brick chimney?  That’s for the non-functional woodstove.) 

The property to the cabin was surrounded by an old wood fence.  I thought there must be 20 acres that the cabin was sitting on… my husband thought, five, tops.  I called the ranger station after we got home, just to see if they knew how many acres it was.  The ranger said, “Well, I don’t imagine it’s more than five.”  Well, it’s a BIG five — from the road, including the creek, up the hill, and a wooded section past the cabin.  The fence usually did a good job keeping out the cows, who are best viewed (and smelled) from some distance…  One night we did come ‘home’ and there were three deer in our yard, sipping from the creek.

Here are Ethan and Audrey, comin’ round the corner:

Off the back porch was a concrete area with a picnic table, charcoal grill and firepit.  We never did use the picnic table, as all our lunches were eaten while we were at Bryce Canyon NP, and during all our dinners it was dark and/or raining.  In fact, it rained all four days we were there, but not steadily, and it didn’t decrease our enjoyment of being there.  Finally, the last night was clear, and though Martin had a blazing headache and had to lay down early, the boys and I lit a big fire in the firepit and roasted marshmallows.  It’s just not a vacation without roasted marshmallows.

When not fishing, the boys spent a lot of time outside, of course, either down by the creek, or up by the cabin, gathering “spears,” which they sharpened on a handy “whetstone” they found.  We also explored the “forest” on the property.  On one venture, I gathered a wildflower bouquet with 17 different kinds of flowers.

Here’s the back porch area:

At 8600′ elevation, the days we spent there, in late July, were in the 70s or low 80s.  It never felt warm enough to play in the creek, so we just used it to toss in pebbles, and to fish.  Nights dipped down into the 50s, but it seemed snug in the cabin, and we slept with the windows open.  As I mentioned earlier, it rained most days, but it never was a downpour, and it seemed like the rain would blow in, then blow out an hour or so later.  And, never was it rainy enough, nor cold enough that we had to stay indoors.

All in all, other than the water issue, we found Podunk Guard Station to be absolutely ideal, both as a destination in itself, and for its proximity to Bryce Canyon National Park.  (As the crow flies, Bryce is actually less than a mile east of the Podunk property, but one has to drive the 16 miles down East Fork Road/FR#087 and then two miles east down Hwy 12 into the national park itself.  We did find a back road that took us to the property line of Bryce Canyon NP, but the road ended in a barbed-wire fence.) 

So, if you’re not a high-maintenance kind of family, and you’re looking for cheap and scenic digs, Podunk is the way to go.  Think of it as camping without having to pack the tent, and with a LOT more space and privacy.  With many campgrounds now more than $20/night, and most other cabins WAY more than $30/night, Podunk is a steal.  Even with my researching, penny-pinching ways, I was hard-pressed to find any place else where I can easily fit my family of 6 for four nights for $129.  That’s less than ONE night in a cabin at the Grand Canyon North Rim. 

Two more pics.  Here’s the view off the back porch:

And here’s our family, right before we reluctantly left:

Since I’m such an explorer at heart, I never want to go to the same place twice.  However, I hope we can return to Podunk, maybe even next year!

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About Karen Joy

I'm a partially-homeschooling mother of six -- 3 boys ages 19, 17 and 15 years old, and three girls: 11, 8, and 3. I like birding, reading, writing, organic gardening, singing, playing guitar, hiking, the outdoors, and books. I very casually lead a very large group of homeschooling families in the Phoenix area. I have a dear hubby who designs homes for a local home builder and who is the worship pastor of our church. I live in the desert, which I used to hate, but now appreciate.

Posted on August 11, 2008, in Family, Loving Nature!, Summer Plans, The Dear Hubby, The Kids, Travelling, Utah, Weather. Bookmark the permalink. 10 Comments.

  1. Hi! I’m green with envy! Sounds like the best vacation ever!!!! I’m adding you to my must read list!
    -Sharon

  2. It looks lovely! And sounds like you all had a wonderful time.

    Cheers!
    Jamie

  3. I had already booked this site and then saw your review. Very informative, thank you for all the good info. We have booked cabins such as this and lookout towers in the past and have never been dissapointed. We have it booked for 2 nights in Sept. Sue

  4. Thanks for all of the info and great pictures. You have a beautiful family. Sounds like an idyllic place! We’re taking our family of four to Podunk Cabin this June for three nights. Your post is much more informative than anything else we have found. Hope you make it back again! Julie ~ Flagstaff, AZ

  5. Jerry OBrien

    Great blog on Podunk and the area – I have booked us there for a couple days on our way to Iowa. Thanks for taking the time to write this. I will remember for us to use the shower facility at Bryce you mention – and will double check the propane thing (will ask the Ranger station about it too when we stop in Panguitch).

    Mission Viejo, Ca

  6. Nice job on the write up. It really helped me plan my trip for my family. Thanks!

  7. this is great!! We are staying there. I’m trying to figure out if there is an access road nearby to hike up to the bryce under the rim trail and yovimpa

    • Kuhlmann, it has been several years since we went, and there might be something that we didn’t find that either has always existed or that we never found… However, we took several back/dirt roads within a few miles north and south of the guard station and a number of them went right up to the border of Bryce, but there was always a (short, old, ill-repaired, wire) fence with signs posted saying that we had reached the border of Bryce and not to enter that way. There is a ranger station nearby… You may want to call in and ask a ranger if there is a hike-in back “door” to Bryce, close to Podunk.

  8. Hi, that is beautiful writing. thanks a lot for the information and story. by the way, How can I check in the cabin? is there any registration office before get to the cabin?
    or, I just use the cabin in reserved date? could you please answer for this?

    • When we stayed there, theew was a combination lock, and we called the ranger’s station for the combo. It has been several years, so I don’t know how they’re handling the lock now.

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